Himatia-Poleos: The Triumphs of Old Drapery, or the Rich Clothing of England

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Printer’s ornament Himatia-Poleos. Or, The Olde Draperie and Clothing of England.

IN euery well-gouerned Kingdome and Common-wealth, the chiefeſt Citie and Citizens therein, haue euermore held the prime place and prioritie; as well in matter of honor, as due right of Antiquity. And as the Lacedemonians, the firſt inſtructers of the olde Romaines, and ſo (from them) we, and all other Nations deriued our forme of rule; As they (I ſay) made a diſtinguiſhing of their moſt memorable Societies, from other of much leſſe note and merite: Euen ſo this famous Cittie of London, whoſe continuall teeming wombe (from time to time) brought forth many ſeuerall Myſteries

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or Profeſſions, hath referred them all in eminencie of place, to twelue onely. Amongſt which twelue gradations of honour and dignitie, the firſt originall began in the firſt Companie of all other in this Citie the ancient fellowſhip or Societie of Drapers.

To approoue the ſociety of Drapers for the firſt, when (as yet) there was none other: it is auouched by *William Fitzſtephen, Iohn Bale, RogerHoueden, * He liued and wrote in the time of king Stephen.and others, that the Wooll-winder, (who was the olde Draper or Clothier, as borrowed from the word Drappier) did carde and ſpinne his wooll, then weaue it into cloth, full, rowe, ſheare, dreſſe, and dye it, and ſell in afterwards in his ſhop, performing all theſe ſeuerall offices thereto, by himselfe and ſeruants: which (ſince then) hath branched it ſelfe into diuers other Companies, and of one entire Trade or Myſterie, is become many.

Out of this liſt or band of Drapers, iſſued Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine knight, descended from that Alwine, Vnckle to king Edgar, who made him Alderman of all England, when as (till then) the name of Alderman, or Eldermen, was neuer knowen. This Henrie Fitz-Alwine had the firſt honour to be ſtiled ** In the olde Saxon tongue from whence it was deriued, it signifieth Dominus or Lord Maire, or Maior of London, by favour of King Richard the firſt, ſurnamed Cuer de Lyon, and was himſelfe (as is crediblie avouched) a Brother of the ſame Societie, in honour of the man by him ſo aduanced, before his iourney to the Holie Land. For, vntill his time,

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the troubleſome combuſtions of the Citie being not fully ſetled: the gouernment thereof remained firſt in Portgreues, next in martiall Provoſts, thirdly in Bayliffes, and laſtly in Lord Maiors, as in meete place is more at large declared.

Heere before I paſſe any further, it may appeare as a blemiſh on mine own browe, becauſe in my Booke in the worthie Company of Goldſmiths, I did ſet downe Henrie Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofſtane to be a Goldſmith, and the firſt Lord Maior of London, alleadging my authoritie for the ſame in the margent of the ſame booke, out* The ancient Chronicler of the Citieof *Iohn Stowe, which now I may ſeem to denie, and affirme the ſame man to be a Draper, to the diſgrace of the forenamed Company, and mine owne deepe diſcredit. What then I did, was by warrant of my fore-alleaged Author, who finding Henrie Fitz-Alwine, Fitz-Leofſtane, to bee Maiſter or Guardian of the kings Mint, did therfore ſet him downe to bee a Goldſmith; which was no error in me to doe the like, being thereto ſecured by him, and knowing (as then) no other proofe to the contrary. But hauing pervſed more aſſured authority in the Drapers Hall, that one, not named Henrie Fitz-Alwine Fitz-Leofſtane, but Henrie Fitz-Alwine, a brother of the olde Drapers, was Lord Maior of London, foure and twentie yeares and a halfe (by yerely election) and longer had been if he had longer liued, who had alſo giuen his dwelling houſe by LondŏLondon

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ſtone, to his owne free brethren of the Drapers, with an annuity yearely to be paide to the king, out of ſuch land as is held of his by them; and that hee lieth in the pariſh Church of S. Marie Bothawe buried, the Pariſh wherein hee liued and died; whereas Iohn Stowe affirmeth him to bee buried in the Priorie of the holy Trinitie, called Chriſts Church, on the right hand within Aldegate, which is now called the Dukes place. Nay more, Maiſter Clarentius Cambden, with the aduiſe of diuers other good Antiquaries beſide, hath (vnder his hand and Seale of Office) confirmed him to be none other then a Draper. What more free confeſsion can any man make, then of his blinde miſleading by a blinder guide? In whoſe behalf I dare yet boldly maintaine, that no ſuch error eſcaped from him wilfully or willingly, his care and endeauour was ſo great, but miſ-information, or incapacitie of reading, may (as it hath done to many) wrong better men then any that are concerned in this caſe, yet without any preiudice or diſhoneſt taxation.

What offence then may the Companie of Mercers take, who make challenge likewiſe to the very ſame man, by miſtaking Peter Fitz-Alwine (a Mercer indeed) for Henrie Fitz-Alwine the olde Draper? Or that of the Fiſhmongers, who deeme their worthy Wallworth, the firſt Knighted Maior in the field, to be the ſame man also, and that no man before him was Maior of

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London? I anſwere freely for my ſelfe, and appeale to an eſpeciall Gentleman in the imagined iniured Companie of Goldsmiths (who tooke no meane paines to be reſolued in this caſe) that no certaine aſſurance could be had therein, but that it remained doubtful between both the Societies. And therefore we perſonated old Faringdon, not Fitz-Alwine, as the booke yet may be ſeene, to cut off all ſuch contentious queſtions. Seeing then that reuerend antiquitie, eminencie of honour, and due right of merit; beſtowed ſo high a dignity vpon the Drapers: I might well be iuſtly condemned, if I ſhould ſeeke after any other argument of credit for them (when ſo maine a buſines doth neceſſarilie require it) then their owne due deſeruing, ſo long time ſleeping in obliuion, yet now reuiued, to their endleſſe honor.

The walles of any Citty, were termed by the Gretians, according as we title our inſtant diſcourſe, Himatia Poleos, The Cloathing or garments of the Cittie. Intimating thereby, that as garments and cloathing doe ingirt the body, defending it continually from the extremities of colde and heat: ſo walles, being the beſt garments of any Citie, do preſerue it from all dangerous annoynances. Here on we lay the foundation of our deuiſe, inthe honour of Draperie the rich Clothing of EnglădEngland, which (long before the knowledge of fantaſticke habites) clothed both Prince & people all alike, to the noFacsimile unclear. Proofed in David Bergeron’s critical edition. meane

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renowne of the Kingdome, and admiration of forraigne nations, to whome our Draperie (abounding in her owne plenty) by meanes of nauigation and commerce, affoorded the rich Liuerie of this land; better imbraced by them, and much more highly eſteemed, then all other trafficque whatſoeuer. As well appeared by that famous Knight and trauayler, Sir Frances Drake, who hauing roŭdedrounded the whole world, and noated the riches & beſt endowments of euery naontion: founde none to equall the Draperie andcloathing of England. In regarde whereof, he choſe to be a louing Brother of the Drapers Societie, before all other Companies of the Citty. Wherefore our firſt land deuiſe is a Shippe, very artificially and workemanly framed, called the Barke-Hayes, fitted with Captaine, Maiſter, Mate. &c. and ſuppoſedly laden with woollen cloathes, to make exchaunge for other Countries beſt commodities, and thought meet to vſher the way to the reſidue of the ſhowes, which are directed to follow in this manner.

A beautifull Chariot, drawen by two golden pelletted Lyons, and two golden Woolues Erminnois, after the manner of the triumphall Chariots of the Romaine Emperours, is graced with the ſuppoſed shape of King Richard the firſt, with the ſeuerall figures of ſo many Citties in England about him, as conueniencie of place and cariage graunted libertie vnto. Thoſe Citties are diſciphered by their Eſchuchions of

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Armes, and that their beſt aduantage euer enſued by making of woollen Cloathes, for the continuall maintenance of Englands Draperie. But London ſitting neereſt vnto himſelfe, as chiefe Mother and matrone of them all: he honours the head of his chiefeſt Chamber, with a triple imperiall Crowne of golde, vnder battelled or branched with Cloudes, and beames of the Sunne, being the Armes of the Drapers Societie, and declaring his loue and fauour beſtowed on her, by his aduauncement of Sir Henrie Fitz-Alwine to the Maioraltie, in whom began the olde Drapers dignitie.

After this Chariot, followeth a Pageant or goodly Monument, figuring the whole eſtate of Londons olde Draperie. In the ſupreame and moſt eminent ſeate, ſitteth Himatia, or Cloathing, as Mother, Lady and commaundreſſe of all the reſt, who by their diſtinct emblemes and properties, (apted for the eaſieſt apprehenſion) doe expreſſe their dutie and attendance on ſo gratious a perſon, in their ſeuerall places and offices to them belonging; As in Carding, Spinning, Weauing, Rowing, Fulling, Shearing, Dreſſing, Dying, Tentering and performing all other ſeruices to woollen Cloathes, which at first was done onely by the Draper, or Clothier. Peace, Plentie, Liberalitie, Councell and Diſcreet Zeale, doe ſupporte the floriſhing condition of Himatiaes Common-wealth, and ſtriue to preuent all occaſions which may

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ſeeme ſiniſter or hurtfull thereto.

Our deuiſe which wee spake laſt of, and yet is appointed the firſt in ſeruice, ſerueth both for the water and land. Till the yeare 1453, the L.Lord Maiors of London vſed to ride on horſebacke to Weſtminſter, at ſuch time as each one went to take his oath. But S. Iohn Norman Draper, being then Maior, at his owne coſt and charge, and for the reliefe of poore Watermen, who were much diſtreſſed in thoſe daies: made a very goodly Barge for himſelfe and his Brethren, to be rowed therein by water to Weſtminſter, and ſo to continue for a yearely cuſtome. It was a coſtly Barge, and the Oares are ſaid to bee couered with ſiluer: in memorie whereof, and the honeſt benefite yerely found thereby: the Watermen made a pleaſant ſong called, Rowe thy Boate Norman, &c. This honour beginning likewiſe in the Draper, and falling out ſo fitly to helpe our invention: in a goodly faire Barge, made meete for the purpoſe, attendeth the ſuppoſed ſhadow of Sir Iohn Norman, with the ſeauen liberall Sciences (all attired like graceful Ladies) ſitting about him, vntill ſuch time as the Lord Maior commeth to take water, and then he ſaluteth him with this ſpeech.

S. Iohn (9) S. Iohn Normans ſpeech on the Water.

WElcome to the water, worthy Brother Draper. Imagine me to be the true reſemblance of olde S. Iohn Norman, ſometime Lord Maior of this famous Cittie, and the firſt that deuiſed this water honour, making my Barge at mine owne proper coſt, and rowed with ſiluer Oares to Weſtminſter, when (as you now) I then went to take mine oath. In regard whereof, I was the firſt Maior, that was preſented to the Barons, of the Exchecquer. The imaginarie ſhapes of the ſeauen liberall Sciences, each one diſtinguiſhed by their true charracter, are placed as my companions in my Barge: in memorie of the loue I euer bare to learning, and no meane bounties by me extended for the maintenance thereof. I ioy, that inuention would make vſe of my remembrance in this manner, to doe any ſeruice to ſo deſertfull a Brother, and to the Companie of Drapers which I dearly affected. On then my hearts, and as in those elder dayes you declared your loue to olde Iohn Norman: ſo expreſſe ſomewhat nowe to delight my honourd Brother, ſinging cheerfully, Rowe thy Boate Norman.

Which beeing no sooner ended, but diuers ſweet ſinging youths, belonging to the maiſter that enſtructeth the yong Quiriſters of Pauls, be

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ing all attired in faire wrought waſtcoates, and caps belonging also to them, each hauing a ſiluer Oare in his hand; do ſing a moſt ſweet dittie of Rowe thy Boate Norman, and ſo ſeeme to rowe vp along to Weſtminſter, in honour of the Lord Maiors attendance.

For the ſeuerall peales of Ordinance, which make better report in the aire, then they can be expreſſed by pen: For the Drums, Fifes, Trumpets, and other muſicall Inſtruments, whereof each Company maketh their choice, to grace this honourable ſeruice out and home againe, in the true affection of louing Citizens, not ſuffering their chiefe Magiſtrate to want any part of their kinde reſpect and furtherance: they can much better ſpeake for themſelues then I, and ſerue but as a breathing time to mee, vntill my Lords returne and landing. When all onr deuiſes being martialled in order, according as wee haue formerly related, except a goodly Ramme or Golden Fleece, with a Sheepheard ſitting by it; as occation ſerueth, deliuereth his intention in this enſuing ſpeech.

The Sheepheard.

WHy gaze yee ſo vpon me? am I not a man, fleſh, bloud, and bone, as you are? Or in theſe ſilken ſattin Townes, are poore plaine meaning Sheepheards woondred at, like Comets or blazing Starres? Or is it this

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goodly beaſt by me, that fills your eyes with admiration? If it be ſo, let me then reſolue ye, that it is an article of dutie which we Shepheards of Cotſwold owe to the old Drapers of London, for keping their flocks on the Cotſwold hills, that whĕwhen any worthy Brother of their Society comes to be L.Lord Maior of this City, the very faireſt Ram in all their flocks is ſent vnto them as a ſolemne offring, as being the Creſt of their Companies Armes, and the chiefe maintainer of Wooll for cloathing. In which reſpect, my Father about ſome ſix and twenty yeares ſince, when S. Martin Calthrope (a Brother of the ſame Society) was Lord Maior, brought then the like goodly Ramme as his oblation; and I hearing, that his man S. Thomas Hayes, and another Martin, Maiſter Martin Lumley (by the bleſſing of heauen and their owne vertuous endeauours) were the next choſen Brethren of the ſame Band, the one to ſucceed in the ſelfe ſame dignitie of the Maioraltie, and the other of the Shriuealty; haue brought this as my hearts free offring, in honour of them that ſo dearely affect them, and in my dutie to them both, with all my vtmoſt ſeruice beſide. For thus ſay we in Cotſwolde.

From the Ramme we haue the Lambe From both our fineſt woolles are ſhorne. Wooll (12) Wooll had thus from the Ramme and Lambe, Makes the beſt Cloath, that can be worne. Thanke then the Draper that began: To make ſuch Cloathing, meete for man.

For, if wee haue no Ramme, wee are ſure to haue no Lambe: no Lambe, no Wooll: no wooll, no Cloth: no Cloth, no Draper.

Heauen graunt that we may neuer ſee these noes, For we ſhall then feele twiſe as many woes: (ſtore: But that of Ram, Lambe, Wooll, Cloth, ſtill we may haue So ſhall the Drapers then thriue more and more.

As meane additions, to giue ſome ſmall Iluſter to the Showe, becauſe ouer many were thought inconuenient; we make vſe of a golden pelletted Lyon, a ſupporter to the Companies Armes, with a Champion mounted on his back, and a golden woolfe Erminnois, the Enſigne or Impreſe belonging to the Lord Maiors Creaſt. And with theſe fewe ſlender deuiſes, we vſher his Honors way toward Guilde-Haule; vntill he come to S. Laurence-Lane, where the figure ofS. Henrie Fitz-Alwine, thus fauourably ſtayeth him.

In (13) IN times of olde Antiquitie, When men liu’d long and healthfully, Deteſting ſloth and idleneſſe, Which breeds but ſurfet and exceſſe. When yea and nay was greateſt Oath, And mens beſt weare, good woollen Cloath, Yeleped Englands Draperie, More worth then gaudie brauerie, Of Silken twine, Siluer and Golde, Nere knowen in those bleſt daies of olde: Then liu’d that graue and worthie man, That Londons honour firſt began, By title of the Maioralty, A high and famous dignity: Henrie Fitz-Alwine was his name, Noble by birth, and of much fame. Whoſe ſubſtance though his graue hath kept, Foure hundred yeares, where he hath ſlept: Yet is his ſhadowe raiſde in me, To grace this daies ſolemnitie. For he being firſt that held the ſway Of Maior in London, iuſtly may Challenge (by right) prioritie, In honouring his owne Companie, With all that ſacred Poeſie can Deuiſe, to grace ſo good a man, As firſt with hearts, hands, and free voice, Was thought meet in the peoples choice To rancke in that rich rowle of fame: That honoured firſt the Drapers name. And worthie Brother here ſuruay C Thoſe (14) Thoſe ſeuerall kinds of Londons ſway Till royall Richard firſt in me, Altered the rule to Maioraltie. Portgreues held firſt by ſtrict command, Next Prouoſts with a ſterner hand, Such from the Conqueſt was the caſe Of Londons awe, till milder grace Made choice of Bayliffes, men thought fit In the Kings iudgement Courts to ſit, And right all cauſes of contention: By vpright cenſure, or preuention. Yet all this could not pleaſe the king, In two mens rule grew varying, By leaning to what part each liſted, So might by might was ſtill reſiſted. Wrongs vnredreſt, offences flowing, Garboyles & grudges each where growing. Therefore as God had giuen him place, Solely to rule, and iudge each caſe, So would he plant a deputie, To figure his authoritie, In the true forme of Monarchie, Then which, no better ſoueraigntie. Which office being impoſde on me, By ſuch a gracious Maiestie: I held it foure and twentie yeares, (Yearely elected, as appeares.) Vntill my verie dying day. Since when (my Lord) I can well say, The Science of olde Draperie, (Our louing kind Society) Hath (15) Hath yeelded many a Magiſtrate,The number of 45. Lord Maiors, In the ſelfe-ſame degree of State. And Time reſerueth in his ſtore, For the like honour, many more. On then before, for we muſt tend, Till this daies triumph haue full end.

The ſolemnitie of ſo pompous a feaſt being finiſhed, and his Honor (according to yearelie cuſtome) returning towards Paules, with all the former conceits gracefully borne before him: he is mildlie ſollicited for a minutes ſtay by old Sir Iohn Norman, who (in this manner) giueth him a reaſon for it.

The Speech at the little Conduit in the after- noone, at my Lords going to Paules.

HOnorable Lord and Brother, it is impoſed on olde Iohn Norman, brieflie to diſcribe theſe two beautifull deuiſes to yee. In the firſt, which manifeſteth the Honor of Draperie, your well iudging eye may eaſily conceiue, each perſon by their apt diſtinguiſhment. The Mother, Olde Draperie, with her Daughters and attendants placed about her, doe deliuer the Drapers true antiquitie, and that which he and his onely performed, is ſince become the benifit of diuers trades or occupations. Carding, Spinning, Weauing, Fulling, Rowing, Shearing, Dreſſing, Dying, Tentering, and what

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elſe appertained to wollen cloath, was the auncient Drapers ſole profeſſion, and the chiefe honour of this famous Kingdome: flouriſhing thereby in so many happy bleſſings, and ſo fortefied by Peace, Plenty, Bountie, Councell and Diſcreete Zeale, that all other nations ſate and admired thereat. You haue a taſte of this felicity in that other Deuiſe, beautified with the chiefe Clothing Cities of this Land, for maintenance of auncient Draperie, whereof London ſitteth the highest aduaunced, as being his choyce Chamber that first made a Draper the onely Gouernor thereof. I am loath to hold yee long, and well I wot, more ample relation hath beene made vnto yee; and therefore to God and your good deuotions I heartily commend yee.

Night folding vp bright day in dimme mantles of darkeneſſe, and thoſe diuine ceremonies ended, which waite as Henchmen on that daies duetie, the Starres ſeeme to leaue their places in their fixed Spheares, and become as ſo many bright flaming Torches to grace our worthy Magiſtrate home, euen to his houſe, (as it were) in the malice of blacke-fac’d night, and to further the finiſhing of ſo ſolemne a Tryumph, which endeth with this humble farewell giuen to his Honor.

The (17) The Speech deliuered to the Lord Maior at parting. THe longeſt daies haue end at laſt, And pleaſures pompe is but a blaſt, You ſee my Lord that ſullen night, Sworne enemie to daies delight, (For all the pride theſe Tapers make,) Whiſpers, that we muſt farewell take. To doubt of your enſuing care, Or to aduiſe yee, to prepare For enuies ſtormes, or ſoothing ſmiles, That wait on ſuch high place ſome whiles: Longs not to me. For in your eie Such true Charracters I eſpie Of vertue, zeale, and vpright heed, That you will prooue the man indeed, Meet ſuch a charge to vndergoe: Whereto heauens hand hath raiſde you ſo· And that you’le equall any yet That in the ſelfe-ſame place hath ſet. Such is the hope of all that loue yee, Mongſt whom, I cannot chooſe but moue yee With their remembrance, that this day Haue done as much as men well may In honouring this Solemnity, The Drapers worthie Company. Their loue and bountie hath expreſt, How with their fauours you are bleſt: For, as their kindneſſe hath not ſcanted: So hath no needfull ſeruice wanted. C3 For (18) For this daies honour and delight: And ſo my worthie Lord good night.

Thus the worthy and firſt honoured Company of Drapers, hauing (in louing and bountifull manner) declared their kinde affection to as affable a Magiſtrate: I may not omit one thing more, wherein the duteous reſpect of themſelues, and loue to the Citie very manifeſtly approoued their worth: for, when many ſolemne meetings haue beene made in the Guild Hall, for election of a Sheriffe by common conſent, and as many refuſalls ſtill hapning day by day, to the great diſquiet of the Companies, and mighty delay of time; yet when no one would vndergoe the Office and charge, a Draper hath done it, worthily and willingly, though no Aldermans place as then was voyd, witneſſe Maiſter Benedict Barneham, a learned and iudicious Gentleman, who chearefully vndertooke the Shrieualty in Anno 1591. Next, Maiſter Henrie Iaye, but a yeare ſince, and Maiſter Martin Lumley now Sheriffe of London, all of them louing Brethren of the Drapers Society.

To conclude, as the ſeuerall Inuentions (with all their weakeneſſes and imperfections) were mine owne: ſo the worth and credit of their performance (if any may waite on ſo meane a buſineſſe) belongeth to the exact and skilfull

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Painter Maiſter Rowland Bucket, whoſe care, di ligence, and faithfull dealing I muſt needs commend, and ſhould wrong him ouermuch if I did not giue him due praiſe to his merit. (***)

FINIS.

Printer’s ornament